Ms. Helen, Chicken and Waffles and Africatown, : Visions for the future
Despite our friendship with Ave author (and former Garfield HS basketball star) Anthony Washington, the athletic heritage of Garfield seems doomed unless the school begins to emulate the UW and import black men who can jump . Garfield will need these imports to play for the fans and alums for what looks as if it will be a white school.
The part of this neighborhood that is black seems to be in a precipitous decline. The decline ofAfrican American culture seemed to reach a low point when one of our favorite restaurants, TheKingfish,poofed. This was anawesomely good place .. created twenty years ago by twoladies, sisters and grand nieces of the poet Langston Hughes. TheKingfish was founded three blocks from our home. The money came from a (Black ..sic) basketball player .. Gary Payton. The sisters served up Hughes’ family recipes for those twenty years. EVERYONE .. ate there and the Sisters place was ratedam0ng Seattle’s best.My guess is that the sisters shuttered the Kingfish because they were getting older and didn’t want to host the place every night, but the symbolism was terrible for Jewish folks like us who chose this neighborhood because we wanted to live in a where African Americans and the rest of the city mixed.
So what is this talk of “Africatown?” How can we have a commercial district built around African American business when the African Americans have emigrated to Renton and Tacoma?
My skepticism about the talk of creating an Africatown in the midst of the gentrification of Seattle’s Central District has and .. still is pretty damn strong . The neighborhood that was here when we moved in 40 years ago is gone, replaced by homes that start or approach the $1 million dollar mark and efficiency apartments that go for over 2 grand.
So WTF? How is it that there are African American businesses being created here? The Capital Hill Blog reports that African American community members met with Africatown Seattle and the Union Street Business Association to talk about the future of 23rd and Union with landowner Tom Bangasser. One announcement excited me: Helen Coleman and her daughter, Jesdarnel “Squirt” Henton announced that a lease for Ms. Helen’s Soul Food Bistro had been finalized with Bangasser!
This mother and daughter are planning to bring back “Ms. Helen’s” .. a long standing Seattle institution .. a soul food hangout that was here until the Nisqually quake (and tsunami of gentrification) forced the place to close. I doubt the new place can be “real.” The original was a neighborhood hangout. At a time when the population was entirely black, customers like my wife, our two kids and I stood out. If Ms Helen’s works, I suppose it will have to look like The Kingfish, a Black restaurant that caters to everyone. There is more of thisin the offing. Two waffles and chicken places are opening, one at the former Catfish Corner and one at 1224 E Jefferson St. The second is a “Nate’s Wing’s & Waffles” owned by Nate Robinson, another former Garfield player and NBA star. Nate’s Wings and Waffles in Rainier Beach has been a success and I guess this is his effort to reroot the success in the CD. (Frankly we tried Nate’s wings and were unimpressed .. they are no rival for Ezells’s , the Black mecca of fried chicken still standing across the street from Garfield. This review pretty much echoes our opinion.)